Monday, July 14, 2014

Baiona to Finisterre to Santiago de Compostela

Big road trip today - some say Finisterre is the true finishing point, so quite a few peregrinos walk another 4 days to Finisterre from Santiago. I actually saw the guy from Montreal I met on my first day as he trudged the last few kms - he's not fast, he just keeps on going.


Gets a bit blowy out here.


I got to share the very last Camino way marker with my buddy Christine.


Above the clouds - it really does feel like the end of the earth.


That's it for me - until my next Camino - I'm thinking maybe Lisbon or Porto to Santiago. Any takers? 


Sunday, July 13, 2014

Santiago de Compostela to Baiona

Got up early to present my Credencial and collect my Compostela - about six people (including 3 Aussies) were already there.



Here it is. In Spain, these certificates help you get hired.


The first pilgrims of the day arriving at the portico of the Cathedral.


After more than a week of walking at different schedules, Heidi found me among the 2-3000 congregants at the noon pilgrim's mass (she's not just my angel - I later met about 10 other people who also love her to bits). 

The highlight is at the end of the mass, when six acolytes raise and swing the famous Botafumeiro. I got there an hour early to snag a good spot in the transept (where you can best see it swing).

 
I picked up a rental car and headed for Baiona on the Atlantic coast. Tomorrow I'll drive to Finisterre (translates as End of the Earth) before returning to Santiago for the flight to Madrid - and then home.




The old fort on the headland - it now houses a parador.




Saturday, July 12, 2014

O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

A steady stream of peregrinos up ahead for the final push. I hope to be at the Cathedral before 1:00.


Greater Santiago city limits.


Santiago Airfield - I'll be flying to Madrid with Ryanair in a few days - €38 for the seat - everything else is extra.


Saw this poem in a highway underpass.


Camino kitten in the middle of the path - totally unphased by the passing traffic.


Monte de Gozo (Mount of Joy) - it used to overlook Santiago - now the view is obstructed. 4.7 km to go ...



Welcome to Santiago de Compostela!


These Spanish kids are awesome! They were behind me all the way into town - singing and chanting and getting cars to toot their horns - I loved their positive energy.


Made it!!!


After 18 years of service, my boots only just got me here.


After a shower, I made a quick visit to the cathedral to hug the statue of St James. The massive silver incense burner was originally used to cover up the stench of newly arrived pilgrims.


I heard there's a two hour queue at the Compostela issuing place - I'll get up early tomorrow morning for mine.

Friday, July 11, 2014

Arzua to O Pedrouzo

One more day and I'm there!


Francesca from Genoa - promoting Cerveza Peregrina. She started her Camino 5 weeks ago in France after selling out her share in the family butcher shop. I thought she'd already arrived in Santiago - she left me in her dust days ago.


Late lunch in O Pedrouzo - it's starting to feel a bit urban.


Peregrinos gather for the 7:00 mass.


Afterwards - the altar is a giant pilgrim's shell.


I have mixed feelings tonight - I have no interest in going out for dinner - just a craving for Cheetos and Coke - go figure. I'm impatient to see what tomorrow brings.

Thursday, July 10, 2014

Palas de Rei to Arzua

Another bit of a hike today - but from tomorrow on it's all gravy.

Running of the bulls televised live from Pamplona - started at 8:00 am sharp.



Galicia is Gum-tree country - the eucalyptus smell takes me home.


Heading in to Melide


Last 50 km to Santiago. Ended the day 39 km out - some people I met are planning on doing the lot tomorrow. The pull of Santiago is strong - and even though I think they're nuts, one thing's totally corny, but absolutely true - you have to walk your own Camino.


Mirkwood


One of the three official methods of travel to Santiago (plus walking and by bike).


One of the youngest walking peregrinos I've seen. The youngest on a bike was four year old Veronica from Padua.


The Casa Rural I'm staying at tonight.





Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Vilacha to Palas de Rei

Early start for the big 30 km walk - that's Portomarin in the distance.



I decided to detour around Portomarin - the yellow arrows through town add an extra 1.5 km.



Three quarters of the way to Santiago! Two days ago I splurged and bought a walking stick - it really helps going both up and down hills.


I've been crossing paths a lot recently with this father and son team. The son's 19 and his dad's heading off to China to be a missionary. They just showed up at my scuzzy hotel (on the outskirts of Palas de Rei) and got the last room.


I take back the scuzzy comment - the shower is hot and strong, the staff are friendly and very helpful and they're doing all my laundry for €5.


Endless (and delicious) kale, bean and potato soup, followed by stewed chicken and fluffy chocolate mousse (and one more cortado).


Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Sarria to Vilacha

From Sarria, the Camino starts to get pretty busy (25% of all peregrinos start there). Lots of Spanish high schoolers out there today. I heard Portomarin is booked out, so today's walk ended at a little 8-bed Albergue on the outskirts of town.

Early morning is the best time to walk.


100 kms to Santiago!


Not so fast - here's another 100 km way marker just down the road.


Albergue - Casa Banderas - run by a South African/Danish couple - parts of the building are as old as the Camino.



Tomorrow's walk will be a bit of a slog, so I enjoyed a long foot/leg massage by my Danish host - bliss!