Vilacha to Palas de Rei

Early start for the big 30 km walk - that's Portomarin in the distance.

I decided to detour around Portomarin - the yellow arrows through town add an extra 1.5 km.

Three quarters of the way to Santiago! Two days ago I splurged and bought a walking stick - it really helps going both up and down hills.

I've been crossing paths a lot recently with this father and son team. The son's 19 and his dad's heading off to China to be a missionary. They just showed up at my scuzzy hotel (on the outskirts of Palas de Rei) and got the last room.

I take back the scuzzy comment - the shower is hot and strong, the staff are friendly and very helpful and they're doing all my laundry for €5.

Endless (and delicious) kale, bean and potato soup, followed by stewed chicken and fluffy chocolate mousse (and one more cortado).